Wednesday, 5 May 2010

The McCalls 5525 coat - progress

I am SERIOUSLY impressed with this coat pattern!  I am so impressed that i'm going to make the trenchcoat too.. 

The sizes actually do correspond to the sizes printed on the packet (unlike some patterns I could mention), the instructions are clear - there are no ambiguities, the make-up is straight forward easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy, and the finished article fits like a dream - no alterations required whatsoever.  This is a first for me!

I did as Gertie said and applied some 'light tailoring' using my trusty tailoring book, also with easy to follow instructions:
You can see how the pad stitching (I know, don't laugh at my pitiful efforts) really does shape the collar. I have interfaced (and stitched) the under collar, although the pattern says that you must interface the top part of the collar.

I applied a back stay and underarm re-inforcements, using plain, stiff, calico - the front was also interfaced with stiff calico. (Note to self : must acquire pinking shears!).

And, again using my trusty book, and Gertie's sleeve setting vlog, I used a peice of hair canvas to set the sleeve.  This did the double job of providing a little support for the sleeve head.

The sleeve went in like a dream - no problems at all .. not even cause for one little tiny swear word!

The lining goes in very easily - one thing you might like to know if you decide to make this, is that the buttons and button hole placement markings, only need to be marked on the facings of the coat.  This saves a little time!  I am really really pleased with the fabric combination I have here, and the lining is so silky smooth and soft that the coat has an extremely luxurious feel to it..

I love the collar on this coat!  So very late 50's / early 60's  don't you think?  The finishing touch is topstitching. It makes such a difference to the final look of a hand made garment. I stitched right under the collar too which isn't in the instructions.  The way the collar it is attached means that the collar stays down better if stitched down.

The only thing left to do, is find some buttons.  I looked through my vintage button stash, but havent anything quite right, so I will either use self cover buttons, or I will take a trip to a vintage store in town to see if there is anything appropriate there.  

If you want the whole story on this coat/pattern, then please click HERE.

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