Today I have been mostly cutting out. It takes the best part of a day to cut out a corset pattern (edit from the future - ha!). There are 40+ pieces to this one. I have decided to make one the same as the one pictured above because i've made it before which means the pattern is right and I can just get on with it - no toile. Time is of the essence here, I need it for next Saturday!!!
The foundation fabric is this black coutil with satin flowers. Coutil is a traditional corset material. It is very closely woven cotton, very strong so that it can cope with tight lacing. There are 14 main peices of this, plus 6 gores, 2 for each boob, and 1 for each hip.
Then there's the lining, same number of peices, plus one back placket which will rest underneath the back laces to hide the crease which will become apparent on my back when the corset is laced. I am reducing by at least 4 inches, so the finished waist size will be 23 inches.
Because the lining is made of polycotton I want to interface it for extra strength. The interfacing is a woven one and so also has to be cut on the right grain ... that's all those peices AGAIN!!
When each peice is cut, they have to be marked up. Only the lining needs to be marked with the boning lines.
The most challenging part of this project will be attaching this rubbery fabric. To give you an idea of what it's like .. it feels like that non slip matting stuff, often used to stop fabric slipping when free motion quilting. I can't sew it into the seams for 2 reasons - 1) it makes the seems too bulky and 2) it hinders insertion of the bones into the chanels. It also scrunches up when the chanel is sewn. So the only answer is to glue it into place with double sided bondaweb (yes another cutting bonanza). This poses it's own problems because the hot iron burns the silver paint off, so it has to be done under several layers of fabric protection. I won't embellish the whole corset with this because it will make other things difficult, like closures. But the back placket and 3 side panels on each side will be made with this.Guess what i'll be doing for most of this week!?
Good grief... even reading about it all has made me want to lie down in a dark room! But if it looks as good as the red corset you'll look stunning!
ReplyDeleteI'm sure you're going to look a million dollars, and it'll be worth all the work. You really are such a stylish seamstress.
ReplyDeleteIncidentally, with bondaweb, I find ironing from the opposite side sometimes effective when the top fabric has 'sensitive' features. I've used this method a lot with metallic fabrics which just won't take the heat of the iron needed to 'stick' the bondaweb.
Good luck. x
Bet it will look fab, blimey I can't even sew a cushion cover!
ReplyDeleteTwiggy x
I'm sure I've said this before but I'll say it again and again....you are sooooo clever.
ReplyDeleteEeeeeeek! You're my sewing heroine!
ReplyDeleteOh that corset above is so gorgeous! I wish I could fit into my corset.
ReplyDeletewow that looks like a big job!!icul
ReplyDeleteAmazing...what patience you must have... I would need a stiff drink, can't wait to see the finished corset
ReplyDeleteGood gracious - this is awe-inspiring stuff - and a little scarily complicated. I wait with bated breath to see the finished corset x
ReplyDeleteOh my god - that looks sooooo difficult! You have my total admiration - can't wait to see the finished result!
ReplyDeleteWow that red one is beautiful.. good luck and I can't wait to see the end result...
ReplyDeleteX Alex
Oh sweet lady, if I had your skills my closet would be overflowing with corsets and wiggle skirts!
ReplyDeleteHAVE A VERY LOVELY MOTHER'S DAY :)